The end of summer?

That autumnal chill has entered the morning air; the kids are traipsing back to school, the bleary-eyed post Bank Holiday blues have descended like a fog – is this the end of summer? Well, actually, no it’s not. The sun has come out; in fact, it’s pretty warm in Brighton. And thanks to one photograph by a young Californian, I am now overwhelmed by that sense of bubbling excitement that comes when you realise that out there in the big ol’ world are a thousand incredible moments, a million experiences (can you hear those rousing strings?) all to be had.

© Chris Burkard

This shot by Chris Burkard was deservedly named as the overall winner of 2010’s Red Bull Illume action and adventure sports photography competition. Taken off the west coast of Chile, it captures the moment when surfer Peter Mendria was simultaneously dwarfed by nature and linked to it intrinsically, irrevocably. It’s a beauty; incredible composition, light, and some how transmitting a little of what it felt like to catch that wave in the golden hue of the South American sun. With Ron Stoner as an idol and having already worked with the likes of Quiksilver and Transworld Surf, it seems Chris is destined to have a long and successful career. And me, well, I want to go to Chile. I want to explore those 4000 miles of coastline, and catch one of those waves myself. Anything is possible.

Check www.redbullillume.com to see all the finalists and also Chris’s website here.

Words Tom Spooner

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Chuck Patterson – Shark Film

Sharks are dangerous. They bite. Big sharks bite big. Two big sharks pack twice the bite. So why, on escaping two 9ft Great Whites, you’d choose to go back out the next day to the same spot for an action replay is beyond me. Having said that, I’m glad big-wave pro surfer Chuck Patterson did just that, and survived.

Native Californian Patterson spotted the two sharks whilst stand-up paddle-surfing in San Onofre beach. Wouldn’t touch ‘em with a barge pole? Try taunting them with a 10ft pole with a camera on the end. You’ve got to admire Patterson’s boldness and his continued quest for the extreme. Here’s his incredible footage.

Me my Shark and I from Chuck Patterson on Vimeo.

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When Harry Met Tony…

Tony Hawk is a legend. A true living legend. I watched the show in Brighton a few days ago and though I’ve seen him ride before, it’s always a pleasure to see The Birdman in action – so smooth and flowing and props to all the handplants that were being thrown out. I was lucky enough to meet TH, and bagged this shot of the big man with my little boy, Harry. I was a pretty stoked dad. A few days later, still on a bit of a high because of the shot (thanks a million to photographer James McPhail for graciously taking it and sending it through), Tony sent out what has to be my favourite tweet of the year:

“Can’t carry my extra skateboard on the plane, so I left it in here. Barcelona airport, EasyJet terminal. Finders keepers http://post.ly/nwCr

Yeah, he’s my hero right now. Which is why it was doubly gutting to see that yesterday he’d hurt himself pretty badly at a demo in California. Let’s hope it doesn’t slow him down at all, he’s the best action sports spokesperson we’ve got. So if you’ve ever ridden a board of any kind, cross your fingers and wish TH a speedy recovery.
Chris Moran

Posted in: ACM, photography, skateboarding by matt No Comments

When Tony Came To Town

The growth of board sports is a pet topic here at ACM. After all, it has essentially given us a career and many of the most fulfilling moments of our lives. It’s a fascinating subject in its own right, and is something Chris explores thoroughly in his as-yet unpublished history of boardsports, Standing Sideways.

So we all know extreme sports are ‘big’ these days – they’ve infiltrated the mainstream so much that it is something we all take for granted these days. Still, every so often you get a reminder of what this actually means in real terms, and last night’s Tony Hawk show in Brighton last night was a pretty good indication of just how far skateboarding and extreme sports have come in the last twenty years.

The event itself probably didn’t compare to the previous leg of the tour in Barcelona, in which 25,000 people apparently turned up, compared to the 3,000 who were in Brighton. Plus, Tony didn’t throw down the old 900.

Still, it was a good show as far as these things go. I’ve been lucky (or, at times, unlucky: the Nokia Big Air in Thessaloniki springs to mind) enough to attend more of these ‘In The City’ style events that I count over the years, and yes, they usually attract big crowds. But these are usually massively promoted contests. This is the first one I can think of where it has been marketed around one athlete alone. The fact that Quiksilver can organise this type of event and know they’ll have a sellout on their hands is a powerful demonstration of Tony (and skateboarding’s) mainstream pull these days.

All photo credits: James McPhail. Cheers Jamesy.

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Taj Burrows Multiple Choice

So back in April I was out in Australia, commentating for the live webcast at the Rip Curl Pro as well broadcasting and writing for a range of international surf media. Anyway, busy as ever, I’d arranged to catch up with Taj Burrow. For those that don’t know Taj, he’s one of the most innovative and stylish surfers on the planet, as well being ranked in the top 5 on the professional tour for over a decade.

Apart from his surfing, he also happens to be one of the good guys on tour and with a lifestyle that, quite honestly, makes me often a little bit sick in my mouth. Multi-million contracts, a ridiculous crib in his hometown of Yallingup. Another luxury pad in Bali, where he spends 5 months of the year, a slew of glamorous girlfriends (his links to model-type hotties have seen him as sometime tabloid fodder) and a well known attitude for enjoying the good things in life.

I’ve known Taj for over 10 years, in which time he has had the misfortune to be trapped on Indonesian boats with me for weeks at a time and be blackmailed into offering precious couch space in his rented Hawaii houses. I can honestly say despite the fame and fortune, he is as down to earth and approachable as ever. His 5000 friends on his wicked Facebook page tend to agree.

Anyway, seeing as I had a bit of time with Taj down in Bells, filming for tracksmag.com, I thought I’d try and go beyond the normal interview questions and hit him hard with a few classic surfing moral dilemmas. From choosing one wave for the rest of his life, to a curly one about his future daughter bringing home a pro surfer as a boyfriend, Taj thought long and hard and answered with his typical humour and honesty. Check out the unedited version here:

Multiple Choice Challenge – Taj Burrow from Ben Whitmore on Vimeo.

(posted by Matt, written by Mondy)

XXL Awards

The BIllabong XXL Awards are a brilliant example of a brand running a flawless marketing campaign. It fits the scene perfectly, crosses over between core and mainstream equally well and produces some of the best content in the surf world each year. Here are two of our favourite clips from this year’s awards.

Best slams: love the way Shipstern gets three of them.

Amazing self-followcam through a hefty, hefty old wave, the closest most mortal will ever get to a barrel like this.

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Riding The Wave Of Celebrity

Surfing and celebrity. What a heady, titillating mix. Famous people wearing not much at all!! A sport that supposedly doesn’t care about celebrity anyway! Sun and sand and six packs and plastic boobs!  I mean, just think of Matthew McConaughey, for chrissakes. Now there’s a veritable modern day Hawaiian surfing chief. 

Of course when celebrities go surfing, it’s not for the pics, or the coverage, but for the soul, man. As a recent example, check out Hollywood heartthrob Zac Efron on a recent surf surf lesson he undertook in Sydney with seven times world champion (and PR wizard) Layne Beachley. You can really feel Zac’s zen.

In fact it seems celebrities just can’t be taught by any old salty dog. They need someone on the upper echelons of surfing celebrity, someone with the same amount of ‘suction’, as they say in The Wire. Thus when Cameron Diaz does it, she does it with Kelly Slater…

In the same vein, when American Vogue recently did a cover shoot with Gossip Girl’s Blake Lively based around surfing, the mag drafted in Rob Machado as the go-to surf coach dude. The article, featuring in the June 2010 edition, was written by Hamish Bowles, the European Editor at Large for Vogue who is recognized as one of the most respected authorities on the worlds of fashion and interior design. Click here to read his crazy take on surfing.

Be warned though: his piece comes in at around 3000 words, and is pretty much indecipherable to anyone who knows anything remotely about surfing. So I thought I’d take the liberty of pulling out a few choice quotes and attempting to decipher them for the benefit of anybody living in the real world.

Bowles: “And now I was about to be abducted into this bitchin’ netherworld of tubes, lips, and barrels.”

Mondy’s take: He took a surf lesson of his own free will. He may, or may not, get to his feet.

Bowles: “I duly repair to the fashion closet and spend a good half hour attempting to prize myself into an O’Neill bodysuit, gloves, footwear with bifurcations for the big toes, and balaclava.”

Mondy: He put on a wetsuit, glovies, booties and hood. Either that or he decked himself out ready for a bank robbery. 

Bowles: “Out in the ocean, a man is miraculously walking on water. Actually he is standing on a board and holding a paddle. Jon’s eyes roll. Surfers and paddleboarders are apparently engaged in an Oklahoma!-esque farmer-and-cowboy turf war.”

Mondy: I have absolutely no idea what this clueless idiot is talking about. 
Bowles: “The ocean is like hammered steel, the sky cerulean. The droplets of water on our board are like scatterings of cabochon moonstones. It is hallucinatory.”

Mondy: The water is a grey, the sky is blue. Despite this rather normal state of affairs and him being new to the ocean, he appears to have taken the extraordinary step of dropping acid. 

Bowles: “I understand why landlocked surfer dudes seem to be in a near perpetual state of postcoital lassitude. 

Mondy: While Bowlesy now seems to understand the connection between being unable to go for a surf and the need for a post-root nap, I am still somewhat in the dark. 

Bowles: “and Machado—ice-blue eyes shaded by Dragon sunglasses with giant lenses that transform with the light from Tequila Sunrise to The Blue Lagoon—arrives in an ultramarine VW van (‘the original surf vehicle’)….”

Mondy: Bowles seamlessly fulfills the terms and conditions of Machado’s appearance. 

Bowles: “At one point I look over, and to my astonishment Blake is coolly lying with her back on the board, looking up at Rob as they crest a wave. ‘I want to watch you watch the wave, to see what you are experiencing’, she tells him.”

Mondy: An unorthodox approach to the already unorthodox sport of tandem surfing, granted. But one which seems to indicate Machado may be in line for a celebrity shag fairly soon. 

Still, who I am to denigrate one man’s (and one starlet’s) journey to the spiritual heart of surfing? For all I know, maybe I’ll next see Bowlesy dropping down a 10 foot Sunset West Peak, or witness Lively lying on her back macking through a Desert Point tube.

They’ve got celebrity and they’ve got surfing, which is more than I can say for myself.
Ben Mondy

The Lost Heroes of Empire #1

It’s been a while since I worked with Ed Leigh, so I’m excited about the project we’ve been slowly trying to get off the ground. It’s an idea for a TV series, and we’ve been working on a visual treatment over the last month or so. Last week I went up to London to meet one of the people we’re hoping to work with on the project, Craig Murray – below.

Craig’s an interesting man – an ex-career diplomat, he is most famous for being relieved of his duties as ambassador of Uzbekistan following a rather public disagreement with the Foreign Office over human rights abuses the Uzbek regime was (and is) involved in. He wrote a fascinating book about this murky episode, Murder in Samarkand.

I came across this book after myself, Johno Verity, Adam Gendle, James McPhail and Scott NIxon travelled to Uzbekistan in February 2007 on a snowboarding trip for Whitelines magazine. That was a great trip (click here or the image above to read the story I wrote about it for the now sadly defunct Future Snowboarding magazine) but when I read Craig’s book I sorely regretted not reading it before we’d visited the country, as it put our trip in a welcome new perspective.

Craig’s book also set me off on a very enjoyable reading trail, in which I became fascinated by the history of the country and region and tried to find out as much as possible about it. It led me to a particularly interesting character, FM Bailey, who’s book Mission to Tashkent soon planted the seed in my mind that led to the entire concept of The Lost Heroes of Empire – the project myself, Ed, Johno and Gendle are now working on.

I’ll probably explain more about the Lost Heroes thing in another post: suffice to say Craig is now involved in the project and I met him in London to discuss it and find out what he’s been up to since he wrote Murder in Samarkand. As I say, he’s an interesting man – the book has recently been made into a radio play written by David Hare and with David Tennant in the lead role – Craig himself. I asked him what he’s been up to, what attracted him to our project and how it feels to be played by Doctor Who.

What project are you working right now?
At the moment I’m working on a biography of Alexander Burnes, a great explorer who died in the First Afghan War. He was the first European for generations for generations to penetrate into Bokhara which was at the time a famous closed Muslim city – a very famous centre of Muslim civilisation. Burnes was a fascinating character – a young British Army officer who left his native Montrose to become an East India Company cadet at the age of 15. Like so many of these extraordinary builders of Empire, he was an incredible polyglot, he managed to travel through Central Asia disguised as an Armenian horse trader. He spoke different native languages. And he made friends with Ranjit Singh, the great, much feared ruler of the Punjab. He made friends with Dost Mohammed with the Amir of Afghanistan, he made friends with the Shah of Persia. He had this great facility for getting on with people. He was an absolutely fascinating character and is now completely forgotten. He tried to prevent the First Afghan War, he was strongly against the idea of deposing the first Dost Mohammed to install a puppet ruler on the Afghan throne. But when his policy advice was rejected, he went along with it and sadly was killed in the disaster that ensued.

When will the book by out then? How far along are you with it?
Well, it’s overdue at the minute. It should have delivered to the publisher six months ago. I’m hoping it’ll be out within a year.

What did you think of the radio play of your book David Hare and David Tennant produced?
I thought the radio play was great. I really enjoyed it no end. I had to detach myself though. I had to think that David Tennant wasn’t playing me, he was playing a character based upon me, if you see what I mean. I did think it was a tremendous piece of drama, and it worked really well. Certainly the reviews it got were great, and it seemed to make quite an impact as a radio play, although obviously it didn’t have that big an audience.

Did you meet him, or advise him on the best way of playing ‘you’?
Sadly I didn’t get to meet him. He wanted to meet up, but I was in Africa at the key period. I did send him some advice via email, but the extent to which he took it or not, I don’t know. I thought he did a super job. And it was a part that calls for an enormous emotional range. From, if you like, stirring public speeches, to intense diplomatic negotiation and socialising in strip clubs. And then intense nervous collapse. That’s a lot to portray, so I thought he did a fantastic job.

Were you disappointed that the original plan didn’t come off, to film the book?
The film has been a nightmare. Originally Michael Winterbottom acquired the film rights. At the time we had a choice of about seven or eight serious offers for the film rights, and I chose Michael Winterbottom because I liked him when I met him. he then sold the rights on to Paramount on the condition he was retained as director. Paramount brought in David Hare to do the script, because they were looking to put in a big budget, and they wanted to have a film script they could be confident to carry the budget. It was a big project, and they paid David Hare to write the script. A great deal of money actually, a lot more than I got for the film rights, but unfortunately, David Hare was Paramount’s choice, not Michael Winterbottom’s. So they said to Michael ‘Yes you can direct, but you are going to be working with David Hare’. And un, Michael and David just didn’t get on. They didn’t see eye to eye at all. They have different personalities, they had different ideas on what the film should be. And it just all went wrong. I mean, David wrote the script, Michael didn’t;t like it. They couldn’t agree on the extent of changes, the kind of changes Michael wanted David wasn’t prepared to make.
And then in the middle of all this, Michael did another project with Paramount with the same production team, which was A Mighty Heart starring Angelina Jolie. And that was her and Brad Pitt’s call, they wanted to do that. I should say that Brad Pitt was down to be Executive Producer on Murder in Samarkand. It was very much the same team that then went on to do A Mighty Heart. Which was a flop, commercially. I mean, it was a worthy – tragic storyline, very well acted and all the rest of it. But why would you want to go and see it? You know how it ends, there’s little action of dramatic development, and frankly it seemed to me a strange choice for a fairly large budget film.
But when that flopped, Paramount lost faith in the Murder in Samarkand project using the same team. So they shelved it. David Hare managed to salvage the script he had written, and turned it into a radio play. And this was a fairly light-hearted adaptation of the same film script.

So there is a possibility of Paramount releasing the film again now?
I wouldn’t work with Paramount again, I didn’t like them. But they no longer have the film rights. They still have the rights to David Hare’s scripts, but yes, there’s nothing to stop the film being made with a different script. And in fact we’ve been in very deep discussions with Julian Temple. Steve Coogan was slotted in to play the lead role – to play me, in effect – and he remained very keen to do it. In the last couple of weeks he’s been meeting with Julian Temple and with Don Macpherson the script writer. They’ve been discussing the film and how it would work, and they seem a very good team. So it looks like we’re about to set off again back on the road again. We’ll be back in a period searching for finance. The frustrating thing is that the Winterbottom thing did have finance with Paramount, but the problems with the script screwed it up. So we’re having to start again.

Do you miss your old career?
I do at times. I miss being close to the centres of power, being able to make a difference. I deliberately chose to work in obscure parts of the world, partly because I enjoyed it. I liked living at the edge, in that sense, but also because if you work on Ghana, Uzbekistan – you can very much dictate policy. Or suggest policy that is going to be adopted, because nobody else is really working on it, so you get left to your own devices. I liked the autonomy of it. So being able to make a real difference, I do miss that. I don;t miss being a civil servant, I was always very uncomfortable with the structures of that. And I;d be lying if I said I didn’t miss some of the things that come with the role. I miss having servants. For twenty years I’d never done the washing up or hoovered the carpet. Not having a chauffeured car any more, all that hurts. I don;t suppose it will kill me though.

So any highlights of your recent travelling career?
I’ve been spending a great deal of time in West Africa – Ghana, Nigeria, Togo, and some time in Russia as well. My favourite memory of recent travelling career was going to look at a cemetery in Ekaterinburg in Russia. Id been drinking vodka quite heavily with a Russian friend, and he said you must come and see this fascinating cemetery. I was struggling to understand why, what with the vodka and because my Russian is rusty – I haven’t spoken it in years. So I asked him why, to look at the old monuments? And he said I had to go and look at the new monuments. It really was astonishing – there’s a cemetery that is patronized by the Russian mafia, the wealthiest oligarchs. And they have these incredible monuments – often they have these shiny granite ones in which they laser etch photographs of themselves into the monument. I saw one in which they inset all of his jewelry in there – his rings, his diamonds, even his gold teeth. And they have 24 hour guards, because there must be twenty or thirty thousand quid’s worth of jewelry in the headstone. There’s another one where there’s a statue of a man holding his Mercedes Benz car keys which are in the stature. And to be wandering round this bizarre cemetery while drunk was absolutely fascinating. Ekaterinburg is the ones where they really, really went to town.

As a writer, who are your creative inspirations?
It sounds very presumptuous, but I try to model myself on Graham Greene. I think stylistically, he’s really a great writer. And in many ways, the things Iw rite about inhabit a similar wold. What you might call the sleazy side of international relations, and the more obscure outposts of foreign governments. These were areas in which he was particularly interested in exploring, and in which he had a certain professional interest himself. If I have a model, I suppose it’s Graham Greene. I’ve never really had the confidence to go into fiction. I would like to – I have plenty of stories from my own life that I think give fascinating insights and that I think could be developed by fiction into something broader and more interesting. Episodes that started but weren’t;t finished, but could be by the fictional imagination. But I feel confident with none-fiction, because I feel that you’re not judged as harshly. You’re judged very harshly on the quality of your fiction. I may pick up the courage to do it later.

So what interested you in the Lost Heroes idea we’re talking about?
Well, I’be always been fascinated in these people. All of the peopler mentioned in the project – Mungo Park, FM Bailey, Fred Burnaby, I’ve read their books, years and years ago, and read books about them. I think it is genuinely a great shame that these people are forgotten. They were tremendous personalities, and there are many others such as Richard Burton and Alexander Burnes. These people showed levels of courage which are almost impossible to understand. The sheer physical courage it took to go into the unexplored, and move among people who feared British imperial expansion. If you think about it, they spent their time moving among the margins of Empire, looking at place we may push in next. And they people they met understood that, and had every reason to have them killed off. And there are plenty more heroes who never quite got to become a hero because they were killed of so early. Their courage, their resourcefulness, their extraordinary talents as well also impress me. Fred Burnaby spoke seven languages, Richard Burton spoke 32 languages. And yet nowadays, we are the least polyglot nation in the world. The extraordinary courage, intellectual accomplishments also impress me. They could all write a good book as well. It was just that they were capable of travelling through minus 40 on a horse, cutting their way through jungle, negotiating with a prince, fighting their way in hand to hand combat, killing other people. They could all do all of that – but they could also write best selling books as well. The range of accomplishments of these guys is just astonishing.

How Soon Is Now?

“Tragedy is when I cut my finger. Comedy is when you walk into an open sewer and die”. That’s how US actor, comedian and movie director Mel Brooks outlined his views on the demarcation between comedy and tragedy. 
It’s a distinction that came to the fore when my phone started bleeping in the immediate aftermath of Derrick Bird’s Lake District rampage the other week. The messages, of course, carried completely tasteless gags about the tragedy. And it got me thinking. Just how soon is too soon?

Be it a mass killing, Michael Jackson’s death or Josef Fritzel’s 20 year imprisonment of his daughter, to name just a few recent obvious sources of blacker-than-black humour, these days the jokes are flying around within seconds. Nothing is sacred. Or sacred is nothing. 

One site, www.sickpedia.org, has been set up as a portal for these exact responses. The question such humour poses is obvious. Is it just a natural reaction to massive loss and a human way of coping? Or is it simply a means for people too far removed from the pain to get a cheap laugh, and a reminder that our society has simply forgotten how to react appropriately to large scale loss?

It also reminded me of the great Australian satirical website, The Chaser (www.thechaser.com.au), , who ran the headline ‘Sydney’s Centrepoint Tower rises two places in world’s tallest building rankings’ the day after the 9/11 terrorist attacks in the US. At the time I was somewhat conflicted and confused. The headline made me laugh out loud (and still does), even though I knew with all my heart that the death of thousands of innocent people should never really be a laughing matter.

Similarly, the recent fox attack in Hackney, which left two 9 month old babies disfigured, should brook no scope for humour. And yet it took Rod Liddle (never noted for his taste or restraint, admittedly) about a day to use it as as starting point for a few cheap political gags on his own blog: http://www.spectator.co.uk/rodliddle/6066063/what-to-do-if-a-fox-attacks-your-children.thtml
Further proof, if any were needed, that tragedy and comedy are no longer, if they ever were, mutually exclusive. 
Ben Mondy

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The Etherington Brothers

I’ll be honest, comic books aren’t my thing and never have been. The only time the comic world has ever registered on my radar is when I’ve met a couple of interesting people involved in that scene while on various travels.

I do, however, recognise unquenchable creativity when I see it, and I was lucky enough to meet another inspiring comic book type back in December while over in Morzine to write a story on Rude Chalets for the Evening Standard. The Rude gang have a great scene over there, and I got on well with one of their guides who modestly introduced himself only as Bob and neglected to tell me that he’s actually Robin Etherington, one half of the renowned Etherington Brothers.

From what I can gather, these boys are the cream of the British comic book writing crop, and their exemplary blog showcases their work and generally very appealing take on life. Even better, the brothers are releasing their first children’s book through Random House in September. As Bob puts it, ‘…my brother and I have spent the past seven years creating engaging, exciting graphic and illustrated novels for the 8-12 market and our goal is a simple one: to encourage reluctant young readers to pick up a book and have fun. Our debut title, ‘Monkey Nuts and Diamond Egg of Wonders’, is a beautiful all-ages title that originally began as a weekly strip in the Guardian. It forms part of the DFC Library, an ambitious series of quality stories aimed at inspiring boys and girls to read’.

Worthy stuff indeed – check out their website www.theetheringtonbrothers.blogspot.com for more on the brothers and their remarkable output.